I was back in Dalmorton again, a ghost town about an hour-and-a-half south-west of Grafton in northern NSW. A few buildings still stand, old wooden shells harbouring ghostly stories of another life. The silence here is palpable – an eerie, misplaced sense that makes it more beautiful in a way.
Like many such towns, Dalmorton flourished during the gold rush fever of the 1850s and ‘60s. When the gold ran dry, people slowly decamped until the town became forlorn and forgotten. Once home to 3000 to 5000 people (by varying reports) and allegedly 13 pubs, Dalmorton today is a window back in time that you’ll likely have to yourself.
Passing abandoned shacks and wild-looking scenery, I rolled into town (this time alone and with fuel) and spotted a bloke out the front of the old butcher’s store with a gold detector. It was Sunday, so today there actually were a couple of people about. “G’day”, I said as I wandered past him into the old store, then around the old police lock up (which I’d missed last time). Since I was aiming to get to Glen Innes by nightfall, I pushed on.
After another six kilometres, I came to the old tunnel I’d previously passed through, which was hand-hewn through 20 metres of solid rock and was a frequent route for horse and carts 100 years past. The next 128 kilometres, all the way to Glen Innes, was virgin country to me and I was excited to be finally traversing Old Glen Innes Road.
Once upon a time, before the Gwydir Highway opened in 1960, this road was the only way to travel from the mountains to the sea. Today, it’s a backwater for both nature and adventurer lovers. At its northern end (where I began), the road has been forged into the cliff face and follows the winding Boyd River like an old mountain road. This is particularly evident around the Dalmorton area and it gives it a nice adventurous touch.
I headed south in my trusty little 1996 Toyota Seca under an overcast summer sky, which intermittently spat drops of rain. Following the savage-looking river, I passed forested hills and emerald glades hidden behind bushland. There were cows, wallabies and horses crowding the road at various points and numerous 4WD trails which wander up mountains, or down towards the river – wild places I wished I had another lifetime to explore.
The road has plenty of atmosphere and I found myself stopping every 500 metres or so. Twisted branches, which looked like poised serpents, lined the side of the road. I passed a few dead wallabies, solar panels, abandoned cars, bikes and houses which could be depots for contraband. It struck me you could do pretty much what you wanted out here.
Looking at houses tucked away in front of forest, mountains and a sea of green grass, I pictured myself living here in years to come – writing books, smoking a pipe and stealing nips of whisky from my well-stocked cabinet after late afternoon rides on Ed, my horse.
Each time I rounded a corner, the scenery would change – one minute from dry bushland to lush meadows, which rolled into forested hills veiled with clouds of light mist. Passing more dilapidated shacks I arrived at the old ‘town’ of Newton Boyd. Here I came across a war memorial which reveals that 30 of the town’s boys marched off to war and only one returned. The place is now all but deserted. Just a bridge, a house and a few pots of honey remain.
The honey was sitting right by the memorial, for sale on an honesty policy. Just deposit your money and take a tub. I was rather disappointed I didn’t have any cash on me (does anyone these days?), as I rather liked the idea of a country pot of honey. It looked good too.
Heading on towards Mann River, the main camping spot on Old Glen Innes Road, I drove past a few signs of interest. One included a pink, fluffy horse nailed to a tree and read “horse poo $5 a bag”. The other was sadder – a memorial carved into a tree where the lives of two young boys were cut short after a motorbike accident.
As the light was fading fast, and kangaroos and wallabies began appearing in increasing numbers, I rolled into Mann River campground to a number of caravans, cars, tents and a few fires.
It was a Sunday evening in the summertime, high time for camping and I thought about stopping the night as I’d packed a tent, but I didn’t have any food.
Facts & tips – Old Glen Innes Road
Besides, I had a mystery to investigate, so I continued onwards, up through the steep forest of the aptly named Big Hill, towards Glen Innes.
- Old Glen Innes Road (aka Old Grafton Road if you’re coming from Glen Innes) is roughly 170 kilometres long and takes about four hours to traverse. Be warned, as it’s both interesting and beautiful, it took me about six hours.
- The road is mostly unsealed, although you can easily drive the whole way in a two-wheel-drive.
- There’s no fuel on Old Glen Innes Road, so you’ll want to fuel up at either Grafton or Glen Innes, depending on which way you tackle it.
- Mann River campground, which is at the end (or start) of Old Glen Innes Road, near Glen Innes, has both toilet and camping facilities. There’s no fishing allowed here as the eastern freshwater cod has become an endangered species.
- Take $9 to try a pot of Hibbos Honey at Newton Boyd.
- It’s believed the traditional ancestors of this land were the Bundjalung, Gumbaingirri and Ngarrabul Aborigines, who used the area for initiation ceremonies.
I would like to point out that if you live in Glen Innes the road is called the ‘Old Grafton Rd’
Hi Justine,
Yes, I was aware of that. I probably should have mentioned it but for some reason I didn’t think it was necessary to include. But of course it is! I’ve updated the facts & tips section.
Hay Andy I don’t know if you knew about the tunnel IT was carved out.in the convict days all by hand and chisels if you take the time to stop and take a look inside you can still see the chisel marks clean as the day they were struck 🐾.
Thank you for sharing your adventures and beautiful pictures, Newton Boyd is Gods country just beautiful and a lovely place to grow up in and to call home. I noticed you did not have any photos of the Newton Boyd school or Sports ground. I live in Glen Innes but still call Newton Boyd home my family still have property down there and it is beautiful. Stay safe and happy adventures. Regards Patty
Hi Patty,
Always good to hear from a local and Newton Boyd certainly would have been a great place to grow up. No shortage of beautiful, wide open spaces. I did snap the outside of the school, but it didn’t make the cut.
Thanks Patty and great to have you stop in.
Hi Patty
Are you a descendant of John Maskey & Mary Pritchard by any chance?
Kerry
I am also a descendant John Maskey & Mary Pritchard Would like more information on Maskey Family.
My line is from Isabella Brown and James Arandale Thank you Faye McLeod nee Arandale
Hi Kerry,
The Maskey’s at Newton Boyd are descendants of John and Mary’s son William and his Wife Jane.
Love Your page and in put on the old Grafton road. I grew up in Glen Innes and now live in Norway,have done for 42yrs now.Seeing these beautiful photos and Reading your page brings back a lot of wonderful memories of my times back home we use to travel a lot Down through this way. Beautiful country side.Last time we drove through to Grafton the road was in very poor condition.Is there still a sign With a witch on her broom along the road.?I was very amused when I saw it I actually have a photo of it some where in my album.We use to og on picnics,swim and Dad had Cattle Down there on a property. Lots of fond memories. Thank you for sharing you page. Fay Habbestad.
Hi Fay,
Wow, I bet being away for that long (and so far away) and seeing this would strike up some memories. I thought the road was in really good condition and I didn’t have any problems in my ageing little hatchback. I didn’t see the witch, but there were a few signs that caught my eye along the way.
Sounds like some great memories you have there Fay. Glad you liked it and thanks for stopping in!
I look forward to doing this trip one day – and I’ve already ‘saved’ up $9 for the honey!
You’ll love it Red. Grab me a pot while you’re there!
Gday Andy,
Lovely bits and bobs out here eh…..its greener than a catapiller i reakon. I am gunna do the drive soon, thanks for the tid bits, your a great Aussie bloke.
Regards,
Mort
Mort,
Glad you’re inspired to do the drive. Don’t forget to bring $9!
Thanks for your comment.
Undertaking PhD responding to the question, Who is Ngarrabull?. Country ofcourse is the larges ellement of that answer Your travelogues prove most valuable as his place is revered by both Nagrraul
and by miagrant
I’ve traveled down the Gwydir Highway and its freaky and scary,
that’s coming from a person who’s spiritual and see spirits alot.
awesome story
Thanks Tony!
Hi Tony, I feel very inspired by your beautiful pics……..I want to make this trip one day soon as my partner’s grandmother was born in Dalmorton………in 1891!!! Her father actually found gold there!(in the late 1800;s!)
Best wishes,
Pat.
Sorry it’s Andy ….not Tony…..I made a mistake with your name……Pat
Lol, no worries Pat.
So glad I inspired you, particularly with your family connection to Dalmorton.
Enjoy the journey and don’t forget the $9!
Andy.
Hi Andy
I am going back to where I was born in Glen Inness to show my sister and her Grand Mother lived and also to bring roots to my niece so that one day when her children are really old enough to know their history.rand
Both my Grand Mother and Great Grandmother buried in Glen Innes.
I went up a couple of years ago with my girlfriend and saw part of the house my Grandfather built back in 1930 for his wife and family
I would like to do this trip one day
I hope you get there Jan! It’s a great way to get to your old town.
My great Uncle Bruce Winn was the last owner of Dalmorton before the Mining Company bought it. He and his brother Douglas lived in the old Police Station.. The lockup next door one had a gallows [butchery} at the rear. His place was to the south of the river all the way to Black Slate mine workings. I remember the Rhodes, Brown and Adams family. My GG grandfather leased this country, including Buccarumbi and Yarrow Creek.
Thanks for this addition here Peter!
Hi Peter
Do you have any local info on the Rhodes & Brown families? My descendants were Mary Ann Rhodes & William Henry Brown. I would love to know where there properties were etc. Regards Kerry
My apologies for not getting back in touch with you. I do have some information about William Rhodes and his wife Rodgers of Cooraldooral (Mann River) and their connection with Brown family of Broadmeadows. I understand one of Henry Browns sons married a daughter of William Rhodes. Neil Rhodes of OBX Creek and Dorrigo is a descendant. There is another Rhodes family descended from a Charles Rhodes of Cangi. Please send me an email to jdow4817&bigpond.net.au
The traditional owner around here are Ngarrabull {Glen Innes} Bunjalung to the north and Gumbaynggir northwest south and south east. Its a place where the three groups met years ago. The area around Broadmeadows is particularly important as is on the junction of the Guy Fawkes River. Henry Brown of Broadmeadows was one of the first squatters and many Gumbaynggir people adopted the surname Brown.
How interesting- thank you for sharing
My Grandfather was born at Broadmeadow Station Dalmorton. His Mother was Isabella Brown and Father James Arandale. I beleive there is three Graves there. Would love to know who they belong to. Isabella was a twin and her twin sister’s name was Elizabeth have never found what happened to her if she died at childbirth or not. Would love to find her story if anyone knows it.
Thunderbolt was a regular visitor at Broadmeadow and played cards there.
Have a lot of history on Henry Brown and Family.
Hi Faye
My GG Grandfather was Isabella’s brother – William Henry Brown. I would love to share our info. I don’t have any further information on Elizabeth either though, sorry. Regards Kerry
Hi Kerry,
this is Gary ( Faye Mcleod son). I just saw your reply to mum’s correspondence, I will let her know that you are trying to contact her to share information on family history. She obviously does not visit this site regularly as I do not also. She may contact you, and if not I will be up at her place on Monday and I will do it for her. I do have a phone number of a lady who lived in that area for years if I can locate it.
Regards Gary.
Contact Faye McLeod regarding Brown History
Hi Faye
I am a descendent of Henry Brown (1820 – 1881) as well but via Isabella’s brother Henry Arthur (1845 – 1902 so I guess Henry Junior). I am doing research into that family at the moment and would love to connect as you said you have a lot of history on Henry Brown and Family. If you are open to that you can contact me on [email protected]
Sorry Andy for hijacking your post. But my sisters and I are planning a road trip to the area so will definitely check out the places you mentioned.
Cheers
Annette
No worries at all Annette, great to see it still sparking a discussion here, particularly as I wrote this over 8 years ago. Good luck with your research as it certainly sounds interesting to have family history in this area.
Enjoy the journey and let us know how you get on 🙂
Last time I was there their was a relatively modern home on the hill above the riverbank. Thunderbolt was indeed a visitor. There were Ward descendants at Nymboyda, and Bostobrick. They were all Freds descendants. They all say that the person in the grave at Uralla was his brother. Thunderbolts wife was Mary Bugge who was an Aboriginal woman. Cangie is another place associated with the Ward Family, according to a Gumbaynggir elder I know. There was a Robert Ward of upper Orara River, a former Convict worked for James Aitkin of Bushy Park, Nymboida. He was a bad piece of work. I understand that Henry Brown had Aboriginal people living on his run. They adopted the Surname Brown. There are also Aboriginal Brown descendants scattered all over the place. I have some info on , including Run Maps, Parish Maps, and Broadmeadows early lease information and a little of family information including his relationship to Thomas S. Hall Squatter and to John Fleming the ring-leader of the Myall Creek Massacre Gang. I would need your email address to send you a couple of files.
My Cousin was a Ward her Grandfather was an Uncle to Thunderbolt.
Her Name was Nola . The family lived in South Grafton on the Armidale Road
one of her Aunties was Bella Ward(Mulley) mother of Athol Mulley the Jockey.Nola’s Father was Francis Ward.
Appreciate any info on the Brown Family Thank you.
Hi Andy, would appreciate any information
Thank You in advance
Faye McLeod
Thanks for your additions here Faye. Unfortunately I’m not the person to answer your questions. It’s also been some time since I’ve visited the area!
Hi Peter I would also love any information on the Brown Family. My email is [email protected]. Reach out and I can tell you more about what I am researching. Cheers Annette
I will send you a fil shortly.
My Cousin was a Ward her Grandfather was an Uncle to Thunderbolt.
Her Name was Nola . The family lived in South Grafton on the Armidale Road
one of her Aunties was Bella Ward(Mulley) mother of Athol Mulley the Jockey.Nola’s Father was Francis Ward.
Appreciate any info on the Brown Family Thank you.
Yes I have seen the Ward Family at South Grafton and Nymboida mentioned in the Daily Examiner [trove searches] while looking for Robert Ward. Please send me a message on my email address.
Many years ago I drove along the old glen Innes road from Grafton a couple of times . It’s very interesting The Dalmorton road tunnel and the ghost town
Of Dalmorton. Researched Richard Craigie , as much as I could and gave a talk about his life about a year ago. He arrived in Australia on the same ship my great Grandfather came here on 1820…I remember seeing a statue to Richard Craigie … think Skinner street South Grafton ???
Years ago …. what a fascinating character …
Ray Griffiths
[email protected]
His name was Richard Craig. I am not sure of his connection to Dalmorton. A starting point is Eric Fahey’s ‘The Settlement of Guy Fawkes and Dorrigo. Also there is quite a deal of information in the Bawden lecture series (plus later notes). An Ms was published by a descendant a Ms Simpson many years ago. When our family lived at Glen Fernaigh (former Station site) “Craig’s Line’ was a few miles to the east on the Nymboida River.
There is quite a lot of information concerning Richard Craig. A ms. out of print was the main source of information.
Hey Andy, great reading and makes me want to go there. Would you know the height clearance through that tunnel as our camper is around 3.5-4m high?
Thanks Lee! Unfortunately I don’t and it’s been a while since I’ve been there too.
Hi Andy/Lee,
Just tried to email you about Grafton road tunnel but something went wrong in transmission. I am one of two sons of the late Robert (Bob) Taylor stationed there from about 1938 – 1953.
The Road Tunnel clearances can be obtained by Google search.
I have been enjoying intensively that your tours & recorded history are revealing constantly.
I would welcome an invitation to actively participate inyour historic discovery & reporting, as I have a lot to offer with photos & recollections.
Also, I participated in assisting the Grafton Historical Society with producing a book on The Old Glen Innes Road & special emphasis on Dalmorton., providing many photos & recollections.
Name & contact details available at commencement of this comment.
Thank you Wayne! Unfortunately I’ve been a bit quiet on the reporting front lately, but I’ll keep you in mind as I’m regularly down in the Northern Rivers (based in Brisbane now).
Faye McLeod
[email protected]
Information Broadmeadow Station required about graves there.
Seeking information Elizabeth Brown baby twin
sister to my Gt Grandmother Isabella m James Arandale
Thank you
Hello Faye, I have a file in the Brown family at Broadmeadows run, I will send it to you. Do you know the approximate date of death? Have you had the opportunity to visit the homestead site? I am not sure if there are any graves there. Most burials occurred at Dalmorton. And because of the vandals there are only a few grave stone markers remaining.
Hi Peter, I have never visited the homestead but did meet up with the Maskey Bros. who were fencing
nearby. I think since meeting them they could possibly have passed away.
I have visited the Glen Innes cemetery and seen the graves of Henry and Eliza.I was told Eliza
was buried at Broadmeadow and they shifted her remains to be with Henry.
I do know James Arandale my Gt Grandfather and Isabella’s first child died at birth and was supposed to be buried there also.
Thank you so much for all the information it is great. Had a little giggle at a couple of the stories.
Regards Faye McLeod nee Arandale
The homestead was located on the opposite side of the river to the ‘Convict Tunnel’ .